Acrylic painting
Acrylic paints come in different grades, but we use artists colours which
are made from the same pigments as artists oil colours but are mixed
with an acrylic medium instead of oil. It is sometimes an advantage
that these paints dry much more quickly than oils, but that can also
be a hazard that needs to be managed.
Viv often chooses acrylic paints because she usually begins to lay
out a painting by marking particular points, junctions and focal areas.
The speed of drying allows her to work over this to build the image
fairly quickly. She used to find that acrylics sometimes failed to
have the depth and richness of colour that oil paints have, but with
modern acrylic paint there is very little difference in the final appearance.
We usually paint on linen or cotton canvas, primed with acrylic primer.
Sketchbooks
We both carry and use small sketchbooks on a regular basis. They
are a form of visual memory and are used to record ideas, make observations,
notes even shopping lists and are an important tool to help keep
our visual inquiry processes active and available. A small sketchbook
can be carried everywhere with you and can therefore both encourage
use and become an eclectic record of ones observations, thoughts
and ideas.

Paul's Sketchbook |

Viv's sketchbook |
We find it interesting to look at the sketches and observed studies
of artists throughout history, from cave painting through the Renaissance
to the present day as there is so much in common with how we observe
and note immediate reactions to the world around us. The differences
in styles through the ages show much more in the studio work that artists
complete than in their initial sketches.
Drawing Media
We use larger sketchbooks or separate sheets of cartridge paper to
make longer and more detailed drawings that are usually careful observations ‘on
the spot’. These often inform development of paintings or may
be translated into etchings, dry points or relief prints.
We both use a wide variety of drawing media which are sometimes
determined by choice and sometimes by what we have available at the
time. Paul’s favourite is a 2b to 4b graphite stick which is
hard enough to give a black fine line, soft enough to do soft rangy
lines and does not have to be sharpened too often. Viv prefers 4b
to 6b for their broad expressive range. We both use fine roller ball
pens which are ideal for drawing in galleries, on trains etc., and
we like using ink with glass pens (but this can be really messy!).
We sometimes use coloured pencils to catch colour notes quickly.

Oil Pastel study of Stones |
As an alternative to oil paint Paul often uses Sennelier oil pastels
for working outside. They are soft and versatile and come in very
strong colours so allow for the speedy creation of bold images. Their
only drawback is that they get all over your hands and you tend to
end up with an immoveable green stain under your finger nails!
Printmaking
Many artists make prints by hand, enjoying the visual possibilities
of printmaking and also the potential to make small editions. We
use a number of different printmaking techniques, particularly etching,
drypoint and relief printing, each of which has its particular characteristics.
These are not reproductions, which are mechanical copies of an artwork.
Artists who are also printmakers conceive and develop an image as
a print because the medium enables the idea to be expressed in that
particular way. Sometimes an idea that is developed into an etching
or a relief print might also be developed as a painting – but
these images have very different characteristics and each is suited
to its medium.
Etching
Etching is a traditional process which until very recently was unchanged
since Rembrandt did it in the 1600’s. The artist first coats
a copper or steel plate with a wax resist. He or she then draws their
required image through the wax with a sharp point to expose the metal.
The back of the plate is sealed with varnish and the whole plate
submerged into a vat of strong acid such as Nitric. The acid bites
the exposed lines on the plate and the longer the plate is in the
acid the deeper the lines will be bitten and the darker the grooves
will print. To get lines of different thickness or density fine lines
are stopped out with vanish early in the biting process. The plate
is finally taken from the acid bath and thoroughly cleaned. Ink is
then dabbed into the bitten lines on the plate and the surface of
the plate wiped clear with scrim, newsprint and the palm of your
hand. Finally the plate is placed on the etching press bed, a sheet
of damp paper is positioned on it, felt blankets placed on that then
the plate is passed through the press under great pressure and the
image is both transferred and embossed onto the paper and a print
is made.

Etching Eclipsicles |
Viv learnt to etch at college in the 1960s and revived her interest
in it in the 1980s. She uses mainly copper plate but sometimes zinc
and still uses nitric acid although she’s now much more aware
of the health risks in some of the traditional etching techniques
and has replaced some of the traditional materials with safer products.
A copper plate may make as many as 200 prints before it wears but
the actual inking, cleaning and embossing process takes place for
every print – they are all individually hand made and vary
slightly in the process.
Drypoint
For drypoint you draw directly onto a copper or zinc plate with
a steel or diamond point to create a groove and slight burr that
holds the ink. This is punishing on the drawing hand but the effects
are very immediate. The plate is then printed in the same way as
an etching but you only get 10 to 20 prints off the plate as the
grooves are not as deep as with the acid bite and the burr is gradually
squashed under the huge pressures of the press. Again, each print
is slightly different and sometimes the later ones in an edition
can be a little paler.

Suk, Luxor Dry Point |

Sky, sea and sand Dry Point |
Relief printing
Many people are familiar with relief printing from making lino prints
at school. Artists still use lino for relief printing, but also use
a variety of other materials with a similar texture. A printing block
is made by cutting into the flat surface with tools like woodcutting
tools and sometimes by using other materials to change the texture
of the original flat surface. The print is made by rolling ink onto
the block – this means that the inked surface is only that
left as the highest level of the block – and then a sheet of
paper is placed on the block (or the block is placed face down on
the paper) and pressure is applied to transfer the ink onto the surface
of the paper.
Relief prints can be much more complicated. To print in more than
one colour requires several blocks that have to be carefully keyed
to work together, or the more hazardous approach of making several
stages of the print from the one block, gradually reducing the area
of the surface that prints. Viv has made several lino prints recently,
using high quality inks and paper, and usually using a wooden spoon
to apply pressure to make the print rather than using a press. She
likes to feel the development of the image and sometimes to modify
the pressure applied. She also sometimes applies hand colouring to
areas of a print.
Sometimes the printing surface is built up like a collage, using cardboard,
metals fabrics and other materials. This approach can add texture to
the image and enables inks to be applied to more areas of the relief.
This is printed like a relief print and is called a collagraph.

Poppy Hill Print |
Sculpture
We both make sculpture sometimes. We usually make a small maquette
to work out an idea before making a larger version. The sculpture
illustrated is in plaster – the figure and the cockerel are
Viv’s and the flying horse is Paul’s. These maquettes
were built up directly in plaster. The head was modelled in clay
and cast into plaster and is one of Paul’s Beethoven series.

Maquettes |

Beethoven |
Reflective inquiry
Although most of our work is based on direct experience and studies
from observation, we have both studied history of art and have particular
favourites who have influenced our own work. We travel frequently,
both to find new inspiration and to visit exhibitions and art collections
all over the world. We have both been artist/educators for many years,
working with adult learners to develop creative practice in their different
contexts.
Our own creative practice draws from this wide range of knowledge
and experience. A painting usually starts with an idea, often something
noticed as interesting or unusual. We will often make a number of
studies and maybe do some research to find out more. There is usually
a period of reflection before we start to paint – and we may
make more studies at this stage.
Once we’ve started on larger paintings there is typically a period
of intense work that may be followed, once again, by a long period
of reflection and sometimes many revisions until the image has developed.
We try to capture an idea, a feeling, the energy of the original idea – to
say something about what we’ve seen and experienced rather than
illustrating only how it looked.
Workshops
We occasionally run workshops in our own studio space, either
tutoring these ourselves or with our guest tutors.
We also work with individuals to support them to develop their creative
projects.
If you would like further information, please contact
us to ask for details.
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